Women’s hakama have been passed down to the present day as a symbol of independence and new beginnings, with their role changing from era to era. Historical Evolution and the Creation of the 'Andon-Bakama' Evolving from practical attire suited for movement in the Kofun period to elegant formal wear for the imperial court in the Heian period, the hakama underwent a major transformation during the Westernization of the Meiji period. With the start of female education and the transition to sitting on chairs, traditional kimono presented practical challenges, as the hem and sash easily became disheveled. Initially, some women began wearing men’s hakama for functionality, but in 1883 this was banned as 'unbecoming male attire.' In response, Shimoda Utako and others created the 'andon-bakama'—a skirt-like garment without divided legs—inspired by imperial court attire. It quickly took root as a feminine and practical uniform. From 'Haikara-san' to Modern Graduation Attire Before long, pairing maroon (reddish-brown) hakama with boots and hair ribbons became immensely popular, serving as an iconic symbol of the independent 'new woman' and schoolgirls known as 'Haikara-san.' Although hakama disappeared from daily wear with the post-Showa adoption of Western clothing, the associations of academic achievement and working women cultivated during the Meiji and Taisho eras endured. Today, hakama are widely cherished as formal attire worn at graduation ceremonies to celebrate a fresh start.